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Gardening: Don't prune now, but planting OK

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Having just come from a Master Gardener class on fruit trees conducted by Dr. John Strang of the University of Kentucky’s College of Agriculture, I felt prepared when a northern Kentucky reader called and asked about pruning fruit trees.

“I was wondering if it was the right time to prune my fruit trees,” the caller asked, “and my brother said call that guy whose number is in the paper and ask him.

“So here I am: Can I prune my fruit trees now?”

In Tuesday’s class, Strang had talked quite a bit about planting and pruning fruit trees. The long and short of the matter is: You can plant them in the fall but don’t prune until spring.

I sensed my caller had sharpened his loppers and was simply awaiting my confirmation before heading for his orchard – whether that “orchard” consisted of a few trees or lots. I told him to just put them back in the shed and wait for spring.

And for those of you pondering pruning those fruit trees now, the advice is the same and, according to Strang, here’s why:

Fruit trees, like all others, are busy storing energy in the form of nutrients to make it through the winter  – and that energy is in the roots which are “fed” by the leaves which are on the branches. Cut off the branches and you cut off the leaves and the tree is compromised.

Granted, soon the leaves will be falling but that doesn’t mean the limbs have gone dormant yet. They still have energy and vital nutrients to pass down to the roots – and that’s why Strang said don’t prune your fruit trees until spring.

I don’t think there’s much danger of the tree dying if it’s pruned now, just in case you’ve already done that. If it had some other problems during the year then pruning now certainly won’t help its survival chances, but why put it under any more stress by pruning now?

Planting trees

While it’s not time to prune, fall’s a great time for planting trees since the soil is still warm even though the air is cooling. This gives the trees time to establish some root growth and get a jump start on growing in the spring.

Most folks aren’t discriminating about when they plant fruit trees but Strang did say apple trees do better when they’re planted in the fall while peach trees prefer spring planting. If you have to opt for one, I’d go for fall planting.

The weather – this year not withstanding – isn’t quite as capricious and the soil’s going from warm to cool rather than the other way that could cause the roots to have to just sit for a while.

Now, if you have fruit trees to plant, here are some tips from Strang and UK. These are especially suited for bare-rooted trees like you might get in the mail, but since most come from local nurseries “bagged and burlapped” you can adjust accordingly, looking at the diagram above. The support stakes are a good idea, too, since prevailing winds can cause the tree to grow sideways.

>If the soil’s too wet to plant – and that’s certainly the case now – “heel” your tree in and wait for drier conditions. Trees can be planted, according to the National Arbor Day Foundation, through November. As it is with any gardening, the last thing you want is to plant in wet ground. It’s like setting your tree (or plant) in concrete when it dries!

>When you get the tree home, cut off broken roots. He also suggested pruning your unplanted tree saying, “If you buy a $20 tree then prune $10 off it.”

>Set the tree with the graft union 2-4 inches above the soil line. Since most if not all fruit trees – unless they’re labeled “heirloom” – purchased today are hybrids, depth of planting is important since if that bud union gets below the ground, growth will ultimately come from the root stock and you won’t get anything like what you were expecting!

>Place top soil in around the roots. Do not bring in good soil to fill the hole. This means the tree needs to be planted in “its own soup,” so to speak – where it will be growing.

>Firm the soil around the plant – just “firm it,” don’t stomp it down so hard the poor roots can’t breathe!

>Water in good to settle soil around the roots. Strang said the two mistakes home growers in particular most often make are not adequately watering and not weeding.

>If you’re planting several apple trees, say, of different varieties, make a map of where they’re planted. “I don’t want to try to identify your fruit tree from a leaf,” Strang said. “Make a map.”

>Make a rodent guard around the base of the tree to protect the tender bark from things with sharp little teeth. If one of them girdles the tree then it will die. Use chicken wire or hardware cloth – something they can’t get through.

>Add a few handfuls of gravel to prevent “wallowing.” Strang explained this is so that as the soil settles the gravels will work to keep the soil from compacting which can result in water ponding around the base of the tree and ultimately “drowning” the tree.

“Trees needs water,” he said, “but they don’t need to sit in a pond. The roots can’t breathe.”

Trees – fruit or ornamental – are a serious long-term investment. Getting them off on the right foot is essential to a long and productive life.

If you have questions or need clarification, be in touch with me at 227-4555, pcase@state-journal.com or Kim Cowherd at the Extension Office 101 Lakeview Ct., 695-9035.