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Philip Case's 4x12-foot built up garden was thriving last week. (Photo by Philip Case)

This week and beyond

Moon: Light moon now until full moon on July 16 at 5:38 p.m.; plant only above-ground producers during this period.

Signs: Today through Tuesday, July 9, flowers; Wednesday-Thursday, July 10-11, very fertile; Friday, July 12, through July 18, so-so.

Contact: You may email me at pcase211@gmail.com; call or text 502-682-5995. Visit Facebook and like my page devoted to this information. It’s @plantingbysigns.

The late garden

It’s hard to believe with the first day of summer having just arrived less than two weeks ago that it’s time to talk about what we can still plant in our late summer gardens and what will do well in the fall and on into winter.

As you’ll see from the list below — and the one containing those veggies that likely won’t make it if planted this late — there are still a whole lot of things we can plant if you want to extend your garden far into the fall.

All information here is from " Home Gardening in Kentucky," published for the Cooperative Extension Service by the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture. It’s available at your local extension office or online.

Plants are like all other living things — you and I included — they have a certain lifespan and each species needs a certain number of days after planting to grow and produce.

And as an aside, here’s where there’s a different clock that separates seeds and transplants. Let’s take a tomato plant: The clock starts when the seed hits the soil, usually indoors in the spring for transplanting when the weather improves.

By the time the transplant hits the garden around Derby weekend at the earliest to statistically avoid late frosts and freezes, the plant is likely at least six weeks old, maybe more. But, if you transplanted a tomato plant into the garden now — fully two months from Derby weekend — chances are that plant is probably 10 weeks old.

Check the “date to maturity” on anything you plant now because while the days are hot as is the soil temperature, they’ll be getting shorter — and cooler — as we approach fall. It pains me to write about that since we finally made it to summer, but there’s no point planting something that very likely won’t make it to harvest.

We’re in planting zone 6B and because of global warming we may be able to push the dates just a little later. That won’t lengthen the amount of sunlight each day but at least the air and soil temperatures will remain warmer. I’m going to give them to you by calendar weeks.

Remember: Statistically speaking these are the  latest dates  these veggies can be planted. Many of them you’ll remember from our spring gardens, those that enjoy cooler soil and air temperatures.

Now through Sunday: celery, cucumbers, muskmelons, onion plants (no sets in the fall garden), pepper plants, Irish potatoes, southern peas, watermelons, winter squash

Monday through July 14: sweet corn, rutabaga

July 15-21: cabbage, carrots, cauliflower plants, lettuce heads, okra

July 22-28: bush beans

July 29-Aug. 4: broccoli plants, kale, kohlrabi, Bibb lettuce plants, parsley, snow peas, summer squash

Aug. 5-11: beets, turnips

Aug. 12-18: leaf lettuce

Aug. 19-25: collards

Sept. 1: radishes

And, just for the sake of conversation, here are the veggies from the chart that no longer have a statistical chance of making it to harvest in 2019. At the expense of redundancy, this is statistically and if you want to protect them from them the elements, then you might keep them around for picking time!

Too late: lima beans, eggplant plants, onion seed, parsnips, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and tomato plants.

And other things…

Pouring gravel: If you have gravel to pour on a drive or road on your farm, do that when the light moon rules and that’s through most of July 16.

The same applies for stones on a garden path: Place them when the moon is in the light phase, so they don’t sink. If you’re setting fence posts, do that in the light phase of the moon so the posts don’t sink.

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